“Nature always wears the colors of the spirit.” — Ralph Waldo Emerson¶

Notes

What are Biochromes?¶

Biochromes are natural pigments found in living organisms. They are responsible for the wide range of colors seen in plants, animals, and microorganisms. These pigments play various roles, including attracting mates, camouflage, photosynthesis, and protection against harmful UV radiation.

Types of Biochromes:¶

Chlorophyll

Color: Green Function: Essential for photosynthesis in plants, algae, and cyanobacteria.

Carotenoids

Colors: Yellow, orange, and red

Examples: Found in carrots (beta-carotene), autumn leaves, and flamingo feathers. Function: Protect cells from damage caused by light and oxidation, and contribute to photosynthesis.

Anthocyanins

Colors: Red, purple, and blue Examples: Present in berries, flowers, and leaves. Function: Protect against UV radiation and oxidative stress, attract pollinators.

Melanin

Colors: Brown, black, and some yellow

Examples: Found in human skin, hair, and the feathers of birds.

Function: Provides protection against UV radiation and contributes to camouflage and display.

Bilins (e.g., Phycobilins)

Colors: Blue and red

Examples: Found in cyanobacteria and red algae.

Function: Involved in photosynthesis and coloration.

Flavonoids

Colors: Yellow to red

Examples: Found in flowers and fruits.

Function: Involved in UV protection and attracting pollinators.

Hands on¶

During class time, we had the chance for hands-on learning. We collected different organic materials, such as purple cabbage, onion, basil, etc., as well as organic waste like leaves and fruit peels. We used these to make many amazing pigments on fabric. Additionally, by adding chemical elements such as iron, aluminum, vinegar, and baking soda, we could easily change the pH level of the pigment, which altered the color.

Chemical	Effect	Example of Color Change	pH Level
Iron	Darkens, muting effect	Yellow → Olive green; Red → Brownish	Slightly Acidic (pH ~3-5)
Alum	Brightens and fixes colors	Yellow → Bright yellow; Red → Vibrant	Mildly Acidic (pH ~3-4)
Vinegar	Acidic, enhances warm tones	Purple cabbage → Red/Pink	Acidic (pH ~2-3)
Baking Soda	Alkaline, enhances cool tones	Purple cabbage → Blue/Green	Basic (pH ~8-9)

Alum (Potassium Aluminum Sulfate): Brightens colors and helps fix them to the fabric.
Iron (Ferrous Sulfate): Darkens colors and produces more muted, earthy tones.

Also,¶

adding alumbre roca (potassium alum or aluminum sulfate) to natural dyes acts as a mordant, which helps improve the dyeing process. A mordant binds the dye to the fibers, making colors more vibrant, long-lasting, and less prone to fading.

Various Fabric¶

Fabric	Type	Dye Absorption	Expected Results
Cotton	Natural plant-based fiber	Good absorption, but can be uneven	Colors may appear more muted or pastel.
Alum	Semi-synthetic (plant-derived)	Excellent absorption, smooth surface	Bright and vibrant colors; good uniformity.
Vinegar	Natural plant-based fiber	Moderate absorption, rougher texture	Slightly uneven, earthy tones with more texture.
Baking Soda	Natural animal-based fiber	Excellent absorption, glossy surface	Rich, vibrant colors with a lustrous finish.

- Different mixtures of dye sources, mordants, ph changing acids and fabrics.

Reflection

This seminar was a really interesting course for me because it relates to my thesis project, which focuses on waste, nature, and the abanico. After taking this course, I am considering applying natural dye techniques to the fabric used in my abanico design.